By Pradeep Paudel

When incessant monsoon rains begin to subside, when the sultry gusts begin to blow with a touch of chilliness, when migratory birds begin their journeys southward, and when you hear the tune of Malshree, you know the festive season is around the corner. With the changing season, you feel the atmospheric festive vibes in your skin.

Depending on the Vikram Sambat calendar, the season of festivities in Nepal falls somewhere in mid-September and extends into November. First, you have Dashain and then Tihar, two of the greatest Hindu festivals. The inhabitants of Terai--the southern lowland of Nepal--have yet another festival of Chhath to rejoice in the colors of life and to seek blessings from celestial deities.

With the beginning of long holidays during Dashain and Tihar, Nepali society undergoes a large-scale movement, people making long homebound journeys—especially from urban centers to the countryside—to reconnect themselves with their roots. For a few weeks, the crowded streets of Kathmandu remain barren and deserted, and it comes as no surprise that Nepal sees a large inflow of international tourists this season. There can't be a better time—a clear sky and warm sunny days, cheerful festive moods, elaborate traditional rituals and festivities that last for weeks—to go on a long journey. Nepal satisfies the wanderlust of a Balinese or a Venetian alike should they ever feel like venturing outside.

Autumn: The Season of Mists and Mellow Fruitfulness

Rice being the staple crop of Nepal, the harvesting of paddy begins in Early Autumn, coinciding with the festivals. Because much of the harvesting is still done manually and the threshing process involves animals like buffalos or oxen, one has the rare opportunity of viewing the vanishing world of traditional subsistence farming that continues to bring the entire village men and women to their fields.

The view of farmers reaping and threshing their crops in the stepped narrow enclaves of green hills and riverbanks is not just captivating in its own right but it also serves as a testament to the hardworking nature of the inhabitants of the difficult terrain. For generations immemorial, these villagers have lived a simple rustic life, doing what seasons call for them to do, fully absorbed in what they are doing, devoid of 'big' aims and ambitions—the rural lifestyle often characterized as 'frozen in time'. But, for good or bad, things are changing rapidly.

Dashain: The Festival of Victory and Shakti

Every Dashain, people return to their villages to be with their families and to receive blessings from the elders. It is a uniquely Nepali festival that lasts for 15 days. One legend has it that it is meant to celebrate in commemoration of Rama's victory over demonic forces represented by Ravana, and according to another legend, the festival has to do with Durga, the goddess of shakti (energy/power), and her mighty slaying of Mahishashur, the invincible fighter of Ashura (demon) army. Regardless of the divergence in legends, Dashain is basically about worshiping and meditating on the embodiment of Shakti in various forms of the supreme goddess and the feminine aspect of the divine.

Unlike their co-religionists in India who celebrate the festival as Dasara or Navaratri, stemming from the same mythology and having to do with the same deity of the Hindu pantheon, the way Nepalese celebrate the festival is characteristically different. Apart from visiting shakti pithas (shrines of Shakti) and offering worship for nine days, Nepalese receive blessings from their elder relatives with tika (akshata) and jamara (yellow barley sprouts) on the auspicious 10th day (Vijayadashami) of the festival. Feasting on Sel roti (rice doughnut) and goat meat, flying kites (specifically in the Valley of Kathmandu), and swinging on linge ping (bamboo swings) are native to Nepali society. Many rites and rituals of the festival stem from the local cultures and folk traditions of the society and are shaped by historical events which have made Dashain more of a national festival than just a Hindu-only festival.

On the grim side of the festival, animals are sacrificed on a massive scale during Dashain, raising the issue of animal rights and welfare. Many see this practice as contradictory to Hindu belief in ahimsa (nonviolence) and ethical living. If divinity resides in every soul (including that of animals), it is certainly unethical to slaughter and feast on animals.

Tihar: The Festival of Light with Indigenous Flavors

Tihar, also known as Dipawali in Nepal and Diwali in India and elsewhere, is a festival of light, symbolizing the triumph of righteousness over wickedness and prosperity over destitution. Celebrated two weeks after Dashain for the five days of Yamapanchak, the festival worships crow, dog, and cow as manifestations of divinity in animal forms—a crow being a massager of Yama (the god of death), a dog being a canine guardian of Yama Loka (the underworld realm of death), and cow being a bovine incarnation of Laxmi (the goddess of wealth).

On the day of Gai Tihar and Laxmi Puja, the goddess of wealth is invoked with elaborate decorations and lighting, and her blessings are sought. On Mha Puja, the people of the Newar community worship themselves as part of self-purification and celebration of their body and soul as an adobe of the divine spirit. This day also marks the beginning of the Nepal Sambat New Year, initiated by Sankhadhar Sakhwa, a legendary philanthropist. Celebration of Tihar (almost homophonic to the Hindi word tyohar, meaning festival) culminates in Bhai Tika (a reminiscent of Rakhi in India), the last day of the festival, in which sisters offer tika (a mark made with colored powder or paste) on their brothers’ foreheads to wish them a long and happy life. Legend has it that river goddess Yamuna beseeched her twin brother, the death god Yama, to grant life to brothers until their tika, offered by their sisters, fades away. She was able to make him agree.

Unlike their co-religionists in India who celebrate the festival as Dasara or Navaratri, stemming from the same mythology and having to do with the same deity of the Hindu pantheon, the way Nepalese celebrate the festival is characteristically different. Apart from visiting shakti pithas (shrines of Shakti) and offering worship for nine days, Nepalese receive blessings from their elder relatives with tika (akshata) and jamara (yellow barley sprouts) on the auspicious 10th day (Vijayadashami) of the festival. Feasting on Sel roti (rice doughnut) and goat meat, flying kites (specifically in the Valley of Kathmandu), and swinging on linge ping (bamboo swings) are native to Nepali society. Many rites and rituals of the festival stem from the local cultures and folk traditions of the society and are shaped by historical events which have made Dashain more of a national festival than just a Hindu-only festival.

On the grim side of the festival, animals are sacrificed on a massive scale during Dashain, raising the issue of animal rights and welfare. Many see this practice as contradictory to Hindu belief in ahimsa (nonviolence) and ethical living. If divinity resides in every soul (including that of animals), it is certainly unethical to slaughter and feast on animals.

Tihar: The Festival of Light with Indigenous Flavors

Tihar, also known as Dipawali in Nepal and Diwali in India and elsewhere, is a festival of light, symbolizing the triumph of righteousness over wickedness and prosperity over destitution. Celebrated two weeks after Dashain for the five days of Yamapanchak, the festival worships crow, dog, and cow as manifestations of divinity in animal forms—a crow being a massager of Yama (the god of death), a dog being a canine guardian of Yama Loka (the underworld realm of death), and cow being a bovine incarnation of Laxmi (the goddess of wealth).

On the day of Gai Tihar and Laxmi Puja, the goddess of wealth is invoked with elaborate decorations and lighting, and her blessings are sought. On Mha Puja, the people of the Newar community worship themselves as part of self-purification and celebration of their body and soul as an adobe of the divine spirit. This day also marks the beginning of the Nepal Sambat New Year, initiated by Sankhadhar Sakhwa, a legendary philanthropist. Celebration of Tihar (almost homophonic to the Hindi word tyohar, meaning festival) culminates in Bhai Tika (a reminiscent of Rakhi in India), the last day of the festival, in which sisters offer tika (a mark made with colored powder or paste) on their brothers’ foreheads to wish them a long and happy life. Legend has it that river goddess Yamuna beseeched her twin brother, the death god Yama, to grant life to brothers until their tika, offered by their sisters, fades away. She was able to make him agree.

The festival begins with taking a holy bath in a river, pond, or other natural bodies of water and then preparing a vegetarian meal. The observation of fasting begins on the second day and devotees abstain from food (and, in some cases, water) until sunset. On the third and fourth days, argha (milk and water) is offered to the setting sun and then the rising sun respectively. These rituals are believed to bring health and happiness to families.

As this ancient festival is all about purity and revolves around offering prayers and gratitude to the Sun God and celebrating nature's life-sustaining elements, Chhath Puja is widely regarded as one of the most eco-friendly and environmentally-conscious festivals.

Evolving Festivals in a Modern Context

What are festivals if they cannot kindle a sense of togetherness and spread the joy of celebration in communities? Festivals, by their nature, necessitate the involvement of more than a handful of individuals. However, with modern urbanization, and, with it individualism, festivals have begun losing their communal significance. Gradually, these communal celebrations have become more about 'me' than about 'us'. Consequently, ostentatious display of wealth and status has become a part of Nepalese festivals too.

At this juncture, it is hard to imagine how these festivals will evolve under the pressure of commercialization and consumerism. A festival hallowed out of its essence—its folk stories and mythologies—becomes an empty shell, and what remains is a period of shopping spree to be celebrated. Hopefully, Nepali society will avoid taking that route.

May the festive season of Nepal kindle joy and happiness and foster a stronger sense of community among Nepalese. May peace and compassion prevail over the intolerance and hatred that plague our world today. From the land of Buddha, we extend our heartfelt wishes and prayers to all fellow humans across the world for good health, peace, and prosperity. After all, we have one world and one humanity to celebrate.

The blog first published in Linkedin. Published with permission.